Kamakura Period

The end of the Heian Period

In 1185, the Heian Period ended and the Kamakura Period began. The artistically brilliant Heian period ended with the rise to power of military families. In 1185, after years of conflict, the Minamoto family defeated their rival, the Taira. While the imperial court remained in Kyoto, Kamakura in eastern Japan was chosen as the seat of the shogunate and gives its name (Kamakura) to the period (1185-1333).

Kyoto Style Kimono - Kamakura period kimono

The Kyoto style kimono with its lavish use of material was impractical and, indeed, improper for men and women of the samurai class. The Kamakura style that evolved emphasized simplicity, even frugality.

For everyday wear the warriors put on the hitatare. This hitatare kimono garment seems to have been adapted from the working dress of farmers and was designed to allow free movement. Hakama were worn with a short upper garment, which like the earlier hunting outfits of the nobility had strings to close the cuffs when so desired

.